Recommendation for higher amp 120V EVSE

I am surprised the EVSE that comes with e-golf is only 10 AMP. Most other cars come with 12amp chargers.

I would like to buy another EVSE. I have to stick to level 1 (120V) since there is no option for me to upgrade to 240V (rental house). What do you recommend? Can I get 16AMP, does normal wiring support that? 12 amp has worked well so far.

thanks.

The most you can continuously pull from a standard NEMA 5-15 outlet is 12A. In order to use a 16A charger you would need a NEMA 5-20 outlet (on a 20A circuit) which has a horizontal notch in one of the prongs: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0d/NEMA_simplified_pins.svg/607px-NEMA_simplified_pins.svg.png

While the included 10A charger is disappointing, I'm not sure it's worth the upgrade given 120V 12A will still be deathly slow; personally I'd just rely more on public charging, although I realize that's not practical for everyone.

Another option you might consider is combining two separate 120V circuits into a 240V one using a device like the Quick220, which would double the total power and allow you to use a 240V EVSE (although still at 12-16A rather than 30A).

Intrigued I looked at that Quick220.
It requires that the two 110v sockets are “out of phase”.

For a home to have two out of phase 110v sockets the home must be wired for 220v already.

Barry

BarryMW said:

Intrigued I looked at that Quick220.
It requires that the two 110v sockets are “out of phase”.

For a home to have two out of phase 110v sockets the home must be wired for 220v already.

Barry

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All homes and residential are wired for 240. 2 hot legs, each at 120v, 180 out of phase, makes 240V. A single hot leg to neutral makes 120V. My residence sees 245 to 246V under no load, say at 1 or 2 am, when everyone is asleep. That's about 122 to 123V per hot leg.

To run a EVSE properly, you need a DEDICATED circuit line for the EVSE charger. That means nothing else can plug in to or run on that circuit breaker or line, just the EVSE charger, due to it high current draw.

Kind of an afterthought, but I'd recommend you own where you live, before you step in to driving, owning or leasing an electric vehicle, unless you are ok with using abused public charging systems, cords and handles on your car.

To use a Quick220 you have to find two outlets that are on opposite phase and do not have GFI. Since code requires garage outlets to have GFI, this generally only works at older homes that don't have that protection. Either that or you have to run extension cords out windows or other such nonsense.

I measured my L1 supplied EVSE and it was 12A. As a dedicated unit it failed the forth over heated led acid test. There will never be lead acid batteries in a eGolf.

I have equipment that reads the pilot. My current L1 EVSE is still in its sealed bag but the one from my 2014 said 8A default and 12A when you selected the higher rate.

If you are near Anaheim I will be happy to read your EVSE.

I tried high current with my eGolf and in violation of the J1772 spec it happily charged at 30A and 120VAC. Same with my old Leaf SL. The only thing limiting the current is the pilot. Both cars
respect and follow the pilot.

If you are really serious about high current L1 charging the OpenEvse can be set to 16A. That is the 80% level for a 20A circuit and the max J1772 allows. I could sell you the one I carry with me. It is funny, I previously sold one with the wrong 120V adapter. I only tested it at 240VAC.

I use only L2 at 40A with my B250e. I have never used my carry along EVSE but it is there for emergencies. Like I said I had no idea the adapter was wrong. My customer certainly let me know!