e-Golf Forum and Electric Vehicle News

You are missing something obvious unless the 2018 is radically different from the 2016. Forget car-net and look at the e-manager options on the car menu. You set the departure time and % charge. The start time is computed by the car based on the state of charge. As far as I know it will start before or after midnight, depending on how long it needs to charge.

Basically, these chargers can tell which plug is in use and they adjust the current accordingly. Whatever plug is in use, they still only draw 80% of the current the PLUG is rated for. The code is concerned with preventing a fire anywhere upstream of the charger, not just from the charger itself.

Rd7575
These chargers can only tell voltage.
When plugged into an adapter to permit utilizing a circuit of lower current capability, it is the responsibility of the user to configure either car or EVSE to limit the current drawn.


Barry

The building code wrt this issue is meant to keep the decision-making out of the hands of the end user so as to prevent some idiot from burning his/her house down by, say, setting a stepped down EVSE back up to draw 32 amps on a 20 amp circuit that is only meant to draw a max of 16 amps. This is why the installation manuals for 32amp EVSEs that can be stepped down to draw lower current always state explicitly that the circuit must still use a 40 amp breaker on a dedicated circuit even if the amperage is set to a lower level on the EVSE. The circuit has to be able to handle the max amperage that the EVSE can draw even if the EVSE is set to draw less. See the Siemens Versicharge manual for an example of these explicit directions.

Dear Manybees,
I surrender. You are indeed correct and doing what is in the best interest to your home.

I however would have no issue in my home with a 40Amp eMotorWerks Juicebox 40 EVSE (yes 10KW capable) connected to a 30Amp eMotorWerks adaptor, assuming the 30Amp socket used is suitably wired and breakered. I don’t however like high current in long runs and hade my main panel replaced so avoid doing that. I would set a suitable limit in both EVSE and EV.

It’s a difference of opinion with regards to how we approach electronics.

I wish you all the best with your new EV and EVSE selection.

Sincerely

Barry




My setup consists of a 60A breaker, feeding two 40A breakers, each feeding a 10KW 40A Juicebox 40. The Juice boxes are programmed to share 46A Max and each to max out at 30A.
They start at 8amps and then negotiate the available current with the other Juicebox.
If both are charging then only 23A each. If one is not charging, the other uses the full 7.2KW 30A. Works great, never blown a breaker, wire gauge is significantly oversized, and the run to the main panel is under 4’.
YMMV, past performance is no guarantee of future earnings, not responsible for typographical errors, weight loss claimed is not typical.

Welcome to the E-Golf club. They're wonderful little cars.

I would strongly recommend you contact an electrician to upgrade your electrical service. Even if you find a 16 amp charger, you're going to get pretty frustrated with it in a short time. And the E-Golf is only your first electric car; you'll undoubtedly buy another one. We updated our entire electrical system a few years ago and I'm really glad we did. It wasn't cheap, but you sleep a lot better at night with 200 amp service, a new panel and circuit breakers that protect against arcing and ground faults. You'll be able to run your A/C, charge your car, and turn on all your appliances at the same time. If you're in an older house, it's really time to upgrade!