Best strategies for increasing range?

Hello, new e-Golf owner, 2019 SE with the DAP. I've been toying around with different strategies for the past 2 weeks, and I'm just not sure on the most effective strategies for stretching the range. I leave it in D and coast when I can, but when going downhill slightly, I'll click it into Regen 1 or 2 (depending on how steep it is) and do the same when stopping, staying out of regen 3 until the very end to try and eliminate using the brake pedal as much as i can. I'm very curious to find out if I'm kidding myself about all this and if it's worth the bother. It's a bit like playing a video game at times... Thanks, Newbie

Try using B when you know you're going to have to stop (before lights). Depending on your speed when you engage it, you may only apply the brake pedal at the very last moment.

Whether all this adds to the usable range remains unanswered (at least for me).

I have found the number one strategy for increasing range is simply to slow down. The other stuff - coasting, D mode, B mode, etc - is small potatoes compared to speed. That stuff really comes down to driving preference (for example, one-pedal vs two-pedal driving). If you want to gamify the efficiency, go for it. It can be fun. But the vast majority of the efficiency gains will come from speed.

Best thing is to lower your top speed. BLVDS to Freeways, residential St.s to Blvds, in order of preference for roads to drive.
A road that allows a top speed limit of 35 to 45 mph is ideal.

Maintain your momentum as best you can, minimizing deceleration and regeneration and use of brakes, by timing stop lights as best you can.

Drive smoothly on acceleration and deceleration. If either are noticeable to you, the rates of change, you aren't maximizing your range potential.


I get 6.0 to 6.4 mi /kwh pretty regularly in Spring, Summer and Fall months, a bit less in the cool winter months here in So CA. YMMV, just depends how bad you want it.

Slow down, accelerate and decelerate very gently, and turn off the HVAC. Keep the windows closed above 45 mph (to reduce aero drag).

Set Regen to Level 3 & use cruise control constantly with DAP. I literally just have to steer. Holding the speed change button to 5mph intervals up or down. Takes some practice. Set the DAP to the 2nd closest setting to keep a safe distance. Doing this, I see an average of 4.9 miles per kw. On roads where I do not go over 45 mph, ,my consumption climbs to a high of 5.9 miles per kw.

If I can predict it, occasionally for a red light where I am the lead car, I will switch for the braking to B. But upon proceeding, I switch back to Regen 3 & reset the cruise control & just steer & listen to tunes...

Wow... somebody is in the 6mi/KW range... I am in humble awe. Thanks to you all for your feedback, yes I try to keep the acceleration under the "2" on the energy usage side, stay reasonably close to the speed limits,. Doesn't Regen 3 as the default setting affect your ability to coast along at zero? I've been using zero regen until it's time to lift, and then click it to the needed level of time/speed/distance. But then I'm somewhere in the 4mi/kw range, so I guess I've a lot to learn here.

Tried a few of your suggestions this morning. I too was able to get a consistent circa 6 mi/kw reading in regen 3 around the neighborhood with a lot of start/stop. It went straight back down between 4 and 4.5 average once I'd been maybe 10 miles on the freeway and it seems in a steady state at 65mph it's getting enough below 4, that it drags the average down to the low 4s. It doesn't appear that "coasting" with the regen off is of much benefit, although it shows "0" energy used on the dial, which you'd think would be of some quantifiable advantage..

I understand that there isn't much regen opportunity on the freeway, unless it's bad traffic., however I was just surprised how much higher the range average was around town where one can use the level 3 Regen. Good thing I don't have a long commute with this car, as it much have a far higher City average vs. Highway average.

Thanks for helping the newbie owner.

Try setting the air pressure in your tires to 45 psi cold, first thing in the morning, at day break. That should help a little bit too.

monza said:

Tried a few of your suggestions this morning. I too was able to get a consistent circa 6 mi/kw reading in regen 3 around the neighborhood with a lot of start/stop. It went straight back down between 4 and 4.5 average once I'd been maybe 10 miles on the freeway and it seems in a steady state at 65mph it's getting enough below 4, that it drags the average down to the low 4s. It doesn't appear that "coasting" with the regen off is of much benefit, although it shows "0" energy used on the dial, which you'd think would be of some quantifiable advantage..

I understand that there isn't much regen opportunity on the freeway, unless it's bad traffic., however I was just surprised how much higher the range average was around town where one can use the level 3 Regen. Good thing I don't have a long commute with this car, as it much have a far higher City average vs. Highway average.

Thanks for helping the newbie owner.

Click to expand...

The sweet spot speed reaches its plateau at about 45mph. Once you are driving faster than that, the car is consuming more than balancing regen to pull. The cruise control locks the car to the set speed, up or down in terrain. The programming for the regen detects/ is real sensitive to regen opportunity. Car is basically doing it all for you. My daily commute has 10 miles on the interstate for 2 exits. It totally blows up my efficiency. Pulls my average down to 4.9 (4.7 on a rainy day).

Also echo the 45 psi. Pump em up. (as long as the tire is designed for that pressure)

JoulesThief said:

Try setting the air pressure in your tires to 45 psi cold, first thing in the morning, at day break. That should help a little bit too.

Click to expand...

Last I checked, high air pressure doesn't increase efficiency, it's a myth. Do you have driving data to share the delta?
40 psi vs. 45 psi would be a good start.

mpulsiv said:

JoulesThief said:

Try setting the air pressure in your tires to 45 psi cold, first thing in the morning, at day break. That should help a little bit too.

Click to expand...

Last I checked, high air pressure doesn't increase efficiency, it's a myth. Do you have driving data to share the delta?
40 psi vs. 45 psi would be a good start.

Click to expand...

Suggest you generate the data yourself, then present it here.

Go find someone else to troll.

Not a myth. Does it make a significant difference? Measureable but probably small. Rolling resistance losses are party a function of frictional force on tires and energy lost to tire deformation. Overinflating may decrease rolling resistance a bit, but it depends on tire construction. Overinflating makes the tire stiffer and thus there is less energy lost to internal friction of rubber deforming as it rotates. I don’t know if 1 or 2 psig will make a difference, but 10 will probably have an effect. But, if you get enough above recommended inflation pressure, handling characteristics may change and ride will get more stiff. I'm sure people have done studies to see how over inflation is worth for a given tire and car, but it's probably not too dramatic. I only keep mine 1 psig above set point so I don't need to check it as much. If you keep the tires are the recommended inflation, you should be good. Surely, don't let the pressures go below VW's recommendations.

JoulesThief said:

mpulsiv said:

JoulesThief said:

Try setting the air pressure in your tires to 45 psi cold, first thing in the morning, at day break. That should help a little bit too.

Click to expand...

Last I checked, high air pressure doesn't increase efficiency, it's a myth. Do you have driving data to share the delta?
40 psi vs. 45 psi would be a good start.

Click to expand...

Suggest you generate the data yourself, then present it here.

Go find someone else to troll.

Click to expand...

For the love of god, keep your 6.3 miles/kWh to yourself. Your pride in driving style below 40 mph on your way to form a line for $0.69 McCafé Flavored Coffee. Not to mention drafting behind trucks so drivers don't cut you off for driving slow.

Y'know, the only time I have to read anything from the 'ol curmudgeon' is when someone quotes him a post. Please do us all a favor and don't feed the troll!

Adding him to your foes list will make us all much happier.

mpulsiv said:

JoulesThief said:

mpulsiv said:

Last I checked, high air pressure doesn't increase efficiency, it's a myth. Do you have driving data to share the delta?
40 psi vs. 45 psi would be a good start.

Click to expand...

Suggest you generate the data yourself, then present it here.

Go find someone else to troll.

Click to expand...

For the love of god, keep your 6.3 miles/kWh to yourself. Your pride in driving style below 40 mph on your way to form a line for $0.69 McCafé Flavored Coffee. Not to mention drafting behind trucks so drivers don't cut you off for driving slow.

Click to expand...

Your assumptions are incorrect. I actually got on freeways today to look at another new 2019 SEL. 139 miles, round trip. During rush hour traffic. Driving speeds were considerably above your 40 mph claim, and zero drafting took place.

This was the 6th 2019 e-Golf that I have test driven, and I am struggling to get 5.2 miles kWh.... not sure if it's that they are still brand new and everything still needs to mate, wear in, burnish itself in, or what ever. Nor do I have any idea how long it takes to accomplish it... But the new ones sure do not deliver the miles per kWh that my 2015 120 hp model does, at least not when brand new. Or maybe it's in the newer style windings of the bigger HP electric motors to get that 135 hp.

JoulesThief said:

Your assumptions are incorrect. I actually got on freeways today to look at another new 2019 SEL. 139 miles, round trip. During rush hour traffic. Driving speeds were considerably above your 40 mph claim, and zero drafting took place.

This was the 6th 2019 e-Golf that I have test driven, and I am struggling to get 5.2 miles kWh.... not sure if it's that they are still brand new and everything still needs to mate, wear in, burnish itself in, or what ever. Nor do I have any idea how long it takes to accomplish it... But the new ones sure do not deliver the miles per kWh that my 2015 120 hp model does, at least not when brand new. Or maybe it's in the newer style windings of the bigger HP electric motors to get that 135 hp.

Click to expand...

Larger battery could be less efficient? 2017+ motor and transmission is made in China :shock: However, according to the wiki newer model is more efficient "For the 2017 model year, the e-Golf received an update, which included improved range, better fuel economy, and more power than the outgoing model"

I'm not sure if it would be the battery.

What I have observed, though, in 5 different 2019's is that no matter how nice or how "Old Man" I drive any of them, I really, really struggle to get to 5.3 miles / kWh. At first I thought it was just an outlier or two. But trying consistently, with 6 different cars.... I would swear that anyone that actually gets 5.5 miles / kWh in a 2017 or later, my hat's off to you, you must be doing it right.

Because right now, in a 2019, I sure as hell can't. And the temps during the days here are in the 80F range and all accessories are turned off. I am currently stumped on the cause. But now that I've made quite a few attempts, I sure as hell can see why everyone with a newer 2017 + e-Golf thinks I'm an obstruction to traffic getting what I do on my 2015. All of my test driving has been on Blvd's and streets, nothing over 40 mph, in traffic stop and go, same as I drive in my 2015. I can assure you, I move right along with traffic and keep up pretty much with the flow, in the car I own. I can't prove what VW has changed, going to China with the drivetrain, but it sure eats a lot more of the battery and delivers less miles per kWh than my 2015 does, 12 to 16% less per kWh.

And I don't know how they got it past the EPA, but it makes me wonder.

I suspect this has little to do with battery or powertrain. I believe it is because DAP is now standard equipment on the base model. I believe the EPA does not certify all options, and in the past DAP was optional, and the base car came with radiator shutters (like mine has), which can make a significant impact on aerodynamic efficiency. Take a look at a current model year BMW and you will see even the ICE BMWs have shutters in the grill to improve efficiency. Another efficiency hit for DAP cars: DAP uses energy to operate. It's not much, but aero + DAP consumption all lead to a reduction in range. It's only 2 miles, so it's not a big hit. Besides, per the recent news from VW, you won't be able to buy a 2020 e-Golf anyway, so no need to worry!