Charger lock - make it stop

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So I've been playing with this annoying 'feature.'

There is a slide piston which protrudes when charging is engaged. I've attempted holding the J1772 trigger button in order to jam the piston causing it to retract, unfortunately it will not charge and continue to attempt to lock the charger.

Next step, I removed the wheel and fender liner in the rear and actually disassembled the mechanism and figured I can live without it. Fairly easy with some basic tools. Like mentioned above, when you trigger the release on the J1772 the vehicle does NOT stop charging. It will continue to charge. When you pull the plug the LED in the charge port will go Yellow then turn off. Not a big deal but my issue is your Disengaging Hot.

I find it amazing that VW would completely disregard this safety feature... I understand the proximity feature yet not fail safe. I reassembled everything until they at least acknowledge the trigger being pressed, VW is not saving the world by locking our charge port. Worst case scenario is someone pulls my plug early, its not WWIII. Absolutely ridiculous.
 
VW has ignored the way that every other manufacturer implements J1772. I'm not going to go so far as to say it's not compliant to the standard, because I haven't read the standards docs. However, they seem to be following the protocol of the Type-2 inlet used in Europe, which relies upon the charge port lock on the car and the station because there are no buttons or mechanical triggers on the cord handles.

Because a charge port lock is not common for J1772, not all the latches are properly engaged by the VW mechanism. In those cases, if you remove the handle while it's actively charging, it will open the presence pin which should immediately stop the on-board charger before the AC current carrying pins disengage and arc. However, the J1772 handle button changes the resistance to ground of the presence pin so that should also stop the charging before the handle can be removed. VW clearly is not observing this part of the protocol.
 
OnePerfectDose said:
So I've been playing with this annoying 'feature.'

There is a slide piston which protrudes when charging is engaged. I've attempted holding the J1772 trigger button in order to jam the piston causing it to retract, unfortunately it will not charge and continue to attempt to lock the charger.

Next step, I removed the wheel and fender liner in the rear and actually disassembled the mechanism and figured I can live without it. Fairly easy with some basic tools. Like mentioned above, when you trigger the release on the J1772 the vehicle does NOT stop charging. It will continue to charge. When you pull the plug the LED in the charge port will go Yellow then turn off. Not a big deal but my issue is your Disengaging Hot.

I find it amazing that VW would completely disregard this safety feature... I understand the proximity feature yet not fail safe. I reassembled everything until they at least acknowledge the trigger being pressed, VW is not saving the world by locking our charge port. Worst case scenario is someone pulls my plug early, its not WWIII. Absolutely ridiculous.

Thanks for the tip. I did the same (removed wheel, liner, and disassembled the mechanism) and it was pretty straight-forward. I'd give that a 2 out of 4 wrenches on difficulty scale, if only because I had to unclip/move the charge housing to get at the mechanism. Otherwise, I think any mechanically inclined individual can make this happen without much trouble. I just unscrewed the 'base' of the long piston mechanism and unclipped it from the servo. It then tucks nicely up out of the way.

Thanks for the solution!

Cheers,
Tim
 
I got my car 6 days ago and started charging at work. One day, I came out to my car about 20 minutes after it finished charging and found that someone parked next to my car and removed the plug/charger and plugged it in into his (her?) car. My car was locked the whole time. I thought it was not possible to remove the charger unless the owner/key is available?

There is no apparent damage to my car/charge port, and it still charges and locks when I use the factory charger cable.

So I guess there IS a away for you to remove the charger without any special access/intervention.[/color]
 
Electrikarma said:
I got my car 6 days ago and started charging at work. One day, I came out to my car about 20 minutes after it finished charging and found that someone parked next to my car and removed the plug/charger and plugged it in into his (her?) car. My car was locked the whole time. I thought it was not possible to remove the charger unless the owner/key is available?

There is no apparent damage to my car/charge port, and it still charges and locks when I use the factory charger cable.

So I guess there IS a away for you to remove the charger without any special access/intervention.
It depends on the shape of the latch on the charge cord handle. The lock piston may not engage far enough to prevent forcible removal.
 
:cool:

Just wanted to report that after implementing the diy charger lock fix, I was able to park the eGolf at a Chargepoint airport terminal for two weeks with great success. I've tried to remove Chargepoint handles from the eGolf in the past and it is not viable without the fix noted above.

I left a little sticky note on the charger handle w/ the approximate end-time to the charge (since those unfamiliar with the eGolf would have no way to understand if mine had charged fully or not on glance). The next user left the sticky inside the closed charge port cover w/ a 'Thx!' added. We returned to a fully charged eGolf and were rather happy with OnePerfectDose's fix. Thanks for the trick!

Cheers,
Tim
 
I did not want to do it initially (many people don't care if car is charged or not, just pull the plug out at my work) but recently plugs were updated here and I have constant issue that my car can't lock the charger...

I had same issue with some public chargers - car just can't lock it to start charging...

If I remove this locking thing, will that help? Any idea?
 
vetaldj said:
I did not want to do it initially (many people don't care if car is charged or not, just pull the plug out at my work) but recently plugs were updated here and I have constant issue that my car can't lock the charger...

I had same issue with some public chargers - car just can't lock it to start charging...

If I remove this locking thing, will that help? Any idea?

Yes this will resolve the issue. If the piston senses a jam it will retract and not engage charging. If you move either portion of the piston it will still actuate thinking it is locked.
 
Well, today I've got very weird thing going on for something that was ordinary for few month.

We have free charger close to my home and once in a while I use it to charge when I'm out and can't make it to work. Today, i came there again, nobody around, 5am.
Put it on charger and left. At home, around 6 am I did check how things are going and found that it was not charging. I'm like what's up with it and decided to go and check. I was socked to see some a-hole pulled my charger out and charging his car. He told me that there's 2 h limit and he was there at 4:30 am and my car was there. I told - what are you talking about I came here at 5am... Anyway, with help of security he did all that thing after my car was only 1 h on charger and was just pointing to 2 h limit.

Another that - how in the world they took charger out?? I was not successful with it anytime I tried. I did not wanted to go further with him as he was look crazy about that charger. I did inspect my car for damages in charging port - no such so I left.

So, it looks like there's possibility to take it our in our car somehow. I remember one post about same thing happen to fellow member.
 
Carc said:
Is there a way to turn off the charger lock? In my 3 years with the leaf I never once needed a lock - now I find myself in my garage fishing around for the unlock button so I can disengage the charger every morning. This is the pretty much my only complaint. The charger should only lock when the car is locked and automatically unlock if key is in pocket like the doors do - or the lock should just be an option you have to turn on.

Hej.

As far as I remember from my test drive, you can unlock the charger by pressing the "Door open" button at the remote twice.

Bye,
Oliver
 
miimura said:
VW has ignored the way that every other manufacturer implements J1772. I'm not going to go so far as to say it's not compliant to the standard, because I haven't read the standards docs. However, they seem to be following the protocol of the Type-2 inlet used in Europe, which relies upon the charge port lock on the car and the station because there are no buttons or mechanical triggers on the cord handles.

Because a charge port lock is not common for J1772, not all the latches are properly engaged by the VW mechanism. In those cases, if you remove the handle while it's actively charging, it will open the presence pin which should immediately stop the on-board charger before the AC current carrying pins disengage and arc. However, the J1772 handle button changes the resistance to ground of the presence pin so that should also stop the charging before the handle can be removed. VW clearly is not observing this part of the protocol.

I'll have to confirm tonight, but I think my Fit EV works this way also -- pushing the J1772 release button does nothing, you have to pull the plug for it to stop charging.
 
I am becoming more perturbed by this "feature". Several times in the past week, I have had to unlock the car at least 2 dozen times - and had to wiggle the J1772 plug - to get it disconnected from the car.

This is maddening. And if I cannot disconnect the car - then what good is it?

I mentioned this to my dealer, and they are clueless. They didn't even know what I was talking about; let alone understanding what a pain it is. Even when it is working as designed.
 
miimura said:
We leased an e-Golf this week and this charge port lock is the most annoying thing I have ever seen on an electric vehicle.

The way the charge port works makes perfect sense in Europe where they use the Type-2 connector. The Type-2 handle does not have a button, so it depends on the vehicle to lock the handle in so that it's not yanked out while it's passing current. However, with the J-1772 (Type-1) handle, it's completely a security issue because pressing the button on the handle will automatically stop charging so it is safe to disconnect. Using the same protocol and procedure on a J-1772 vehicle is totally inappropriate and annoying.

IMHO, these choices should be added to the Car menu on the NAV screen.
Charge Port Lock
- Lock Always (requires pressing Door Unlock to release)
- Lock with Doors (always unlocked when doors are unlocked)
- Lock While Charging (Doors must be unlocked to stop charging)
- Never Lock

However, adding these choices will force them to comply with the J-1772 protocol and observe the handle button to stop charging. As it is now, they can ignore the button and use their own button to control when the car stops charging. In fact, when I was figuring out this charge port lock stuff with the provided 120V charge cord, I heard the button activating its switch and the car did not stop charging.

Regarding the earlier posts - if the car starts charging again with the green light pulsing, press the charge button to stop it. Then push the unlock. The car must not be charging in order to release the charge port lock, so pressing unlock doesn't do anything.

Someone should cut and paste this and send it to VW Headquarters so a TSB reflash can be created that will address all these problems in the North American Market, with the J 1772 standards.
 
TDINutz said:
Someone should cut and paste this and send it to VW Headquarters so a TSB reflash can be created that will address all these problems in the North American Market, with the J 1772 standards.
Thank you for the kind words... ;)
 
Hi.

I just leased a 2016 eGolf SEL yesterday.

One of my claims to "fame" is that I design and build EVSEs as a hobby. One of my creations is called the J1772 Hydra. Until Chargepoint came along, it was the only double-headed, single-circuit EVSE in existence. It's still the only one that can be used to safely "split" a J1772 charging station to charge two cars at once.

All that is merely my way of saying that I have read the J1772 specification and am intimately familiar with it.

The specification is oriented more towards readers that are intending to implement an EVSE, rather than those intending to build a car.

I can't speculate on VW's implementation without further analysis of how the eGolf behaves, and I'm not 100% sure I am interested in going down that road, but for the purposes of some of the discussion above, there are two signals that are the most relevant for discussion.

The first is called "Proximity." In general, this signal is not routed to the EVSE (the Splitter variant of the Hydra uses it, however, to pass inlet proximity transitions to the vehicle, but that's the exception to the rule). It's a resistor divider signal that's connected to a switch in the latch release button of the J1772 plug. Pressing the button to unlatch the physical latch that holds the plug in place is supposed to cause the resistance on the proximity pin to change. The spec allows the vehicle 100 milliseconds to stop charging and reduce current draw to "low" levels (a few hundred mA) when a proximity transition occurs.

The second signal is called the "pilot." It is a bidirectional communication channel between the EVSE and the vehicle. The EVSE sends a +/- 12 volt 1 kHz square wave to the pilot through a 1 kilo-ohm impedance. The duty cycle of this square wave is an indication to the vehicle of how much current it is allowed to draw (this is independent of the voltage of the EVSE - it is merely a current limit. A 30A pilot can mean 3.6 kW at 120V or 6.6 kW at 208V or 7.2 kW at 240V). The vehicle communicates its presence and status to the EVSE by connecting different resistances between the pilot and ground (with a diode in-between - more about that later). 2.7 kilo-ohms indicates the vehicle is present, 882 ohms indicates the vehicle desires power and 240 ohms indicates the vehicle desires power and requires ventilation (this is largely obsolete - it's for vehicles with lead-acid batteries that can produce hydrogen gas during charging).

The spec allows a vehicle up to 5 seconds to notice that the pilot duty cycle has changed or that the pilot has been dropped entirely.

Typically if a vehicle is actively charging and someone removes the plug, what happens is that they press the latch release button and a proximity event tells the vehicle to stop drawing current. The vehicle does so very probably before the plug even begins to move. Some vehicles will transition the pilot resistance from state B to state A and the EVSE will shut off the power, but this is not required by the spec. If it doesn't happen, then as the plug is withdrawn, the pilot pin - which is shorter - will break contact first, causing the EVSE to shut off. The power draw from the vehicle will already have been reduced to negligible levels by the proximity transition, which will prevent arcing, both in the plug and in the contactor of the EVSE. The power pins will break contact next, followed by the ground pin - the longest one in the plug.

It's conceivable that VW is locking the plug in to prevent proximity transitions because their charger can't meet the spec's mandate to discontinue high current draw within 100 ms. It's also conceivable that locking the plug in is an artifact of CCS charging, which is an entirely different process (one of which I know very little by comparison), although the plug lock still operates the same way on the SE eGolf, which lacks CCS.

I've attempted (fruitlessly) to remove a Blink plug from my eGolf. When I did so, I could clearly hear the proximity switch click in the button, however so far as I could tell, there was no reaction from the vehicle, indicating that the proximity transition was ignored. If that's the case, then attempting to defeat the latch may result in arcing when the plug is removed. I've witnessed a 30A arc when an EVSE is disconnected under load, and it's a... more impressive thing... than you might expect if you've seen, for example, a spark from unplugging a toaster that wasn't off.

If VW is working around an inability to react to proximity transitions within the time allowed by the spec by locking the plug in place, then to my knowledge they're the only automobile manufacturer that has resorted to such. Highly unexpected from such a deeply experienced batch of German engineers.
 
nsayer said:
Hi.

I just leased a 2016 eGolf SEL yesterday.

One of my claims to "fame" is that I design and build EVSEs as a hobby. One of my creations is called the J1772 Hydra. Until Chargepoint came along, it was the only double-headed, single-circuit EVSE in existence. It's still the only one that can be used to safely "split" a J1772 charging station to charge two cars at once.

All that is merely my way of saying that I have read the J1772 specification and am intimately familiar with it.

The specification is oriented more towards readers that are intending to implement an EVSE, rather than those intending to build a car.

I can't speculate on VW's implementation without further analysis of how the eGolf behaves, and I'm not 100% sure I am interested in going down that road, but for the purposes of some of the discussion above, there are two signals that are the most relevant for discussion.

The first is called "Proximity." In general, this signal is not routed to the EVSE (the Splitter variant of the Hydra uses it, however, to pass inlet proximity transitions to the vehicle, but that's the exception to the rule). It's a resistor divider signal that's connected to a switch in the latch release button of the J1772 plug. Pressing the button to unlatch the physical latch that holds the plug in place is supposed to cause the resistance on the proximity pin to change. The spec allows the vehicle 100 milliseconds to stop charging and reduce current draw to "low" levels (a few hundred mA) when a proximity transition occurs.

The second signal is called the "pilot." It is a bidirectional communication channel between the EVSE and the vehicle. The EVSE sends a +/- 12 volt 1 kHz square wave to the pilot through a 1 kilo-ohm impedance. The duty cycle of this square wave is an indication to the vehicle of how much current it is allowed to draw (this is independent of the voltage of the EVSE - it is merely a current limit. A 30A pilot can mean 3.6 kW at 120V or 6.6 kW at 208V or 7.2 kW at 240V). The vehicle communicates its presence and status to the EVSE by connecting different resistances between the pilot and ground (with a diode in-between - more about that later). 2.7 kilo-ohms indicates the vehicle is present, 882 ohms indicates the vehicle desires power and 240 ohms indicates the vehicle desires power and requires ventilation (this is largely obsolete - it's for vehicles with lead-acid batteries that can produce hydrogen gas during charging).

The spec allows a vehicle up to 5 seconds to notice that the pilot duty cycle has changed or that the pilot has been dropped entirely.

Typically if a vehicle is actively charging and someone removes the plug, what happens is that they press the latch release button and a proximity event tells the vehicle to stop drawing current. The vehicle does so very probably before the plug even begins to move. Some vehicles will transition the pilot resistance from state B to state A and the EVSE will shut off the power, but this is not required by the spec. If it doesn't happen, then as the plug is withdrawn, the pilot pin - which is shorter - will break contact first, causing the EVSE to shut off. The power draw from the vehicle will already have been reduced to negligible levels by the proximity transition, which will prevent arcing, both in the plug and in the contactor of the EVSE. The power pins will break contact next, followed by the ground pin - the longest one in the plug.

It's conceivable that VW is locking the plug in to prevent proximity transitions because their charger can't meet the spec's mandate to discontinue high current draw within 100 ms. It's also conceivable that locking the plug in is an artifact of CCS charging, which is an entirely different process (one of which I know very little by comparison), although the plug lock still operates the same way on the SE eGolf, which lacks CCS.

I've attempted (fruitlessly) to remove a Blink plug from my eGolf. When I did so, I could clearly hear the proximity switch click in the button, however so far as I could tell, there was no reaction from the vehicle, indicating that the proximity transition was ignored. If that's the case, then attempting to defeat the latch may result in arcing when the plug is removed. I've witnessed a 30A arc when an EVSE is disconnected under load, and it's a... more impressive thing... than you might expect if you've seen, for example, a spark from unplugging a toaster that wasn't off.

If VW is working around an inability to react to proximity transitions within the time allowed by the spec by locking the plug in place, then to my knowledge they're the only automobile manufacturer that has resorted to such. Highly unexpected from such a deeply experienced batch of German engineers.

Thank you for that enlightenment. So the question is what did VW change between 2015, and 2016 production, that allows 2016's to not lock the J1772 handle and avoid arcing? Different charger part number? Upgraded?
 
Once I used a public EVSE with a broken plug lock - it had the button to move the locking lever, but the tip of the lever was broken off so the e-Golf port lock was not able to lock the plug in place. The car charged just fine, of course. My memory is bit fuzzy if the car was fully charged when I removed the plug but I certainly did not notice a spark when I removed the plug. I remember pressing the button and I think the charging stopped (green light to the left of the port turned off), but I just can't be sure. If I come across this type of plug again, I'll try to pay closer attention to what happens.

I find it hard to believe that VW would disable a safety feature. From what I've read, they left the plug lock implementation in place because in Germany the EVSEs require a user supplied cable (with two male plugs) and this is an anti-theft measure. We need to keep on pestering VW and maybe they will change it.

FYI I was reading that the BMW i3 used to operate in the same exact way as the e-Golf. BMW just came out with a software patch that now automatically unlocks the port once charging is done. Here is the link for a description of the "hospitality" feature:

http://bmwi3.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/i3-software-update-15-11-502-fixes.html
 
The Type-2 handles used in Europe have no button, so it's up to the car and the charging station to stop the charging and unlock the handles on each end of the cable so they can be removed. I think VW just kept that logic in place in spite of the J1772 handle button and its expected behavior. Changing the lock behavior on the 2016's without properly implementing the response to the J1772 button is even worse than the way the 2015's are with their lock behavior. At least the 2015's are safe as long as the handle latch isn't broken.

Welcome to the forum and e-Golf ownership (lesseeship?) Nick.
 
And to add insult to injury (as the person who started this topic) a charge fault has left me completely unable to remove the charger from my car!!

Car will have to be towed to dealer and a bunch of work done based on what I read from another post. So dumb and unnecessary...
 
Ok so today's fiasco had an upside - a permanent solution to my year long charger lock problem! Unable to get the charger out of the port at all today - I finally got frustrated and just forced the charger head up and down and side to side - until it made a glorious cracking sound - and charger was released. I pulled the broken plastic bit out of the port - and then pushed in the metal rod locking mechanism so the car would recognize that the charger was released - and now all works like a charm. NO MORE NEED TO UNLOCK MY HOME CHARGER EVERY DAY!

If I had known this was a solution - I would have done it a long time ago - I don't know why I didn't think of it. Simply cut off the hook part that serves as the latch at the end of the charger (about the last 1/2") - this is the black plastic part that moves up and down when you press the release button on top.
 
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