Charging port locking issues. Won't lock or unlock - FIX and BYPASS

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somethingcool said:
Be sure to always disengage charging with use of the solenoid in the normal order,

hey all, help the rest of us understand this unlocking process. :shock: I read the entire thread and don't know why I never noticed on my 2017 SE of any latching to the power plug via a moving rod. Where to look to lube it?

All I do is press latch on plug handle which shuts off charge and allows to pull plug. I've noticed it won't charge with those plugs in public where someone just pulled without press-disengaging and it breaks off the tooth at tip (of plug). Therefore in order to charge, I've had to manually "lift" rear of latch so the plug's limit switch registers that the latch has locked. But this is all in the plug, not on the vehicle. In fact Blink was smart to make their latch out of metal so it won't break off.
 
VW does not follow the J1772 protocol and keeps the connector locked in the car even when the button on the connector is pressed. VW requires you to unlock your car first and then you can remove the J1772 connector. On 2017 and later models, you have 30 seconds to remove the connector before the locking solenoid engages again. The locking solenoid is a sliver cylinder positioned directly above the top of the J1772 inlet on the car.
 
May I suggest, it's important to designate what year/model you have
I cannot see, like at the bottom of f1geek's post, it has a footer detailing his cars. f1, if you read this, tell us how did you do that!

why not put that somewhere at beginning of this very detailed post please. If you compare my 2017 SE to the photo between #3 and #4 there's a different look to the pin at top of port. And not related, but the ports are different too because mine is w/o DC fast charge option.
So I'm thinking not all cars have the risk yours have because they changed the design of the lock pin.
 
f1geek said:
... On 2017 and later models, you have 30 seconds to remove the connector before the locking solenoid engages again.

For some LUCKY reason my 2017SE DOES allow to remove the charge plug at any time. I never have to unlock my car either. I never have had to think about unlocking, I just press handle lever and pull out! The car can be locked or unlocked.
I figured that was the normal procedure.
 
Dear forum friend, I have the same issue on my Golf 7 GTE ; I want to do the bypass by my only question is : the car would see if the port is locked or unlocked to be able to start or stop the charging ?
 
I may be slow here since I don’t see where one can spray silicone to lubricate the solenoid as some have suggested. I’d like to see whether lubricating the solenoid will take care of us for the short term.
IMG_4595.jpeg

We recently, with the Winter rains, started having the solenoid sticking: at first occasionally, and now much more frequently.

Dealer charged us $260 to tell us it will cost just shy of $3000. My husband was told the replacement part costa $800 and change, and the labor is $2000 so it sounds to me like the dealer is intending to follow the same protocol as was prescribed to EverdayParadise. Looking online, it looks like the solenoid is listed as “Servo - Volkswagen (000-915-651-A)” in aftermarket and at under $200.
 
Just saw this topic and I think it relates to the problem I just posted title "Car won't charge". This repair work was impressive. Not sure I could pull that off, so just hoping for some advice.
 
We previously owned a VW (Passat) and often went to a non-dealer service shop. I’m a bit fragile getting on my knees at this point and so when the solenoid fails utterly, I am thinking I will print off the helpful post that started this thread and see if the non-dealer service shop(s) Are willing to try it.
 
Luckily my problem is that sometimes i have to manually push it in, vs it not coming out.. althrough i think it did happen once or twice but worked again shortly later..

I have to wonder if temp changes cause the metal to expand so it has too much friction..
I bet I could probably ream out the hole that the metal cylinder resides in, and it might work right after that..

I'm just going to try lubing it while it's hooked to the charger or otherwise still out when it should be in. There have been a couple of times when i've manually pushed it in and unhooked only to get in the car and find out it's still out.

lately i've been sticking my finger in to depress because the charger handle has it exposed at my local volta station.. it hurts a little, but you can kind of feel that it causes the actuator to go in reverse.. but i keep a screw driver in the passenger rear door pocket for this reason.. also the silicone spray that i bought from walmart. note to self, lube that sucker.
 
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