livestrong126m
***
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2018
- Messages
- 4
I was using a BTCPower evp-2002-30 unit to charge my 2017 e-Golf SE. I have two identical cars. The first time something because amiss was when I had the car on the charger for maybe 4-6 hours. A mile or two down the road the MFI has a warning that says, "12 Volt battery is low - drive to charge." I thought that was odd. The car is 18 months old and this one had 12k miles on it. But I know VW 12 volt batteries can be crap, so I tested it, it was low, so I charged it. I thought nothing of it after that.
Fast forward a few weeks and I used the same charger and this time the car was plugged in for ten hours. When I came out the car wouldn't unlock the charging port, and I was only able to get into the driver's door, and when I tried to start it the MFI said no key was detected. Even when I held the key up to the sensor on the steering wheel (where you used to insert the key) nothing happened. Slowly all the lights started to die in the car. As I was trying to get the charging cable out I heard relays clicking in the charging port. So I suspected that somehow the charging station had a fault and killed the battery. I went and got my battery tester (and tools in case I was right and the battery was dead), and sure enough, the battery was at 8 volts. So I removed the battery, took it home to charge it, returned the next morning, plugged it back in and the car was fine.
I scanned the car with my Ross-Tech cable and there was a massive list of low voltage codes. But the most troubling ones all related to the charging system and faults with communication. As I've never had a problem before and the charger I was using was brand new I am certain there is a fault in the firmware of the charger.
So, some tips for you guys.
First, to release the charging cable when the battery is dead. There is a pin that "shoots" out from the car and it prevents you from lifting the locking tab on the cable itself. I was able to get something in straight and just push it back in. Doing this did NOT damage it. But as I was sitting there trying to figure it out most people have an easier time when you use a pick with a 90-degree hook. So I will be putting one in each car if this happens again.
Second, if you come back and you find all the 12 volt systems to be dead it will most likely be a dead battery. If you have roadside service the easiest thing is to call for a new battery to get installed. I'm an automotive tech by trade and my shop was around the corner which is why I removed the battery and charged it. The car was located in a secure lot I have access to and can charge my car. Had I been in a public place out of town I would have called for roadside service to replace my battery and just eat the cost to get home. No damage is done to the car when this happens, but the car won't function without a 12-volt battery.
If you have any questions please ask. I'm probably forgetting crucial details that will help someone out in an emergency.
Fast forward a few weeks and I used the same charger and this time the car was plugged in for ten hours. When I came out the car wouldn't unlock the charging port, and I was only able to get into the driver's door, and when I tried to start it the MFI said no key was detected. Even when I held the key up to the sensor on the steering wheel (where you used to insert the key) nothing happened. Slowly all the lights started to die in the car. As I was trying to get the charging cable out I heard relays clicking in the charging port. So I suspected that somehow the charging station had a fault and killed the battery. I went and got my battery tester (and tools in case I was right and the battery was dead), and sure enough, the battery was at 8 volts. So I removed the battery, took it home to charge it, returned the next morning, plugged it back in and the car was fine.
I scanned the car with my Ross-Tech cable and there was a massive list of low voltage codes. But the most troubling ones all related to the charging system and faults with communication. As I've never had a problem before and the charger I was using was brand new I am certain there is a fault in the firmware of the charger.
So, some tips for you guys.
First, to release the charging cable when the battery is dead. There is a pin that "shoots" out from the car and it prevents you from lifting the locking tab on the cable itself. I was able to get something in straight and just push it back in. Doing this did NOT damage it. But as I was sitting there trying to figure it out most people have an easier time when you use a pick with a 90-degree hook. So I will be putting one in each car if this happens again.
Second, if you come back and you find all the 12 volt systems to be dead it will most likely be a dead battery. If you have roadside service the easiest thing is to call for a new battery to get installed. I'm an automotive tech by trade and my shop was around the corner which is why I removed the battery and charged it. The car was located in a secure lot I have access to and can charge my car. Had I been in a public place out of town I would have called for roadside service to replace my battery and just eat the cost to get home. No damage is done to the car when this happens, but the car won't function without a 12-volt battery.
If you have any questions please ask. I'm probably forgetting crucial details that will help someone out in an emergency.
